Here's
all of what Dick Metcalf had to say about CorrosionX in his
"Worth A Look" column in Shooting Times:
I
sometimes think there are more different kinds of firearms
lubes and rust-prevention compounds on the market these days
than there are guns. However, I have recently become a
believer in one particular item and have begun using it
exclusively. The product is CorrosionX.
As a corrosion inhibitor, CorrosionX polar bonds to metal
(water beads on it like car wax), prevents rust from starting
even with extended exposure to rain, and withstands extreme
handling abuse. It repels moisture with the thinnest of coats.
I've rubbed hard with a salt-sweaty thumb on a barrel wiped
down with CorrosionX and moisture still beads. And its
polar-bonding effect works to prevent existing rust from
progressing - spray it on a gun where rust specks have already
begun, and it'll stop it cold.
As a lubricant, CorrosionX offers a lower coefficient of
friction than even PTFE-fortified products ( the Teflon,
semiteflon, and other polymer-bead compounds). Plus, since
it's specifically designed for high-temperature(s), it doesn't
burn off or sublimate away during hot-action use. I recently
used it to lube the yoke/crane cylinder-rotation shafts of two
.357 Magnum revolvers during a 10,000-round endurance review,
where 500-round strings were standard. CorrosionX worked
longer and better than anything I've used before. The
cylinder/yoke areas would get too hot to touch, but the lube
did not dry up and was visibly still "moist" when I
pulled off the cylinder.
As a penetrating agent, CorrosionX is remarkable. The
manufacturer reports incidents where its application has freed
the frozen actions of guns that have laid for weeks in the
soaking ruins of building fires. That's pretty extreme.
Here's more from Chris Christian's GUN WORLD article on
CorrosionX:
Unfortunately, .22 rimfire semi-auto pistols happen to be one
of the more difficult firearm designs to keep functioning in a
reliable manner. And the same also applies to semi-auto
rimfire rifles. There are two major reasons for this, and they
really aren't the fault of the gun.
The first is that the .22 Long Rifle cartridge (regardless of
who makes it, or how much it costs) is an inherently dirty
little rascal. It tends to spew a significant amount of lead
and powder residue every time the trigger is pulled.
The second is that the rimfire semi-auto action is rather
small and confined. It doesn't leave a lot of room for this
debris to settle in, nor can it be blown out of the action
as is the case with centerfire semi-autos Crud tends to
accumulate in a .22 rimfire, and when enough of this crud
accumulates, the gun tends to stop shooting. That's not a good
thing to happen, especially in the middle of a match, or if
you have just figured out the lead and sight picture on a
rapidly-vanishing varmint.
You can compound that problem quickly if you use the wrong
lubricant for the gun. Some otherwise outstanding oils and
lubes tend to hold powder and lead residue, which builds up
quickly and leads to failure in as few as 50 to 100 rounds.
Other lubes, like Rem Oil or Tetra Gun, do not allow firing
residue to cling as tightly; if my Ruger was properly cleaned
and then lubed with these, I could expect as many as 300
rounds ,give or take, before the gun decided to take an
extended break in the middle of the action.
I believe I have found a better lube than that. CorrosionX is
a relatively new product using some very high-tech
ingredients. Those components surface bond with metal, form a
self-healing shield and resist wearing extremely well.
To find out how CorrosionX might work with rimfires, I took my
Ruger Mark II target handgun, stripped it, hosed it with carb
cleaner and thoroughly spray-lubed it with CorrosionX. I then
took a fresh 500-round brick of CCI Green Tag (an excellent
performing match load, but an outside lead-lubricated round of
the type that causes the most sludge build up in many .22
rimfires) and began firing them. This was not a torture test
... I engaged in normal precision practice (30 to 50 rounds
per session, twice a week) for the next six weeks.
The only maintenance on the gun during the six-week period was
to: (1) wipe the breech face with a clean patch after each
shooting session, and (2) run one dry patch through the bore
every 100 rounds. No additional lubrication, internally or
externally, was provided during the six-week period.
After 10 years of shooting this gun in competition, I have
found that the very best lubricants would allow 300 to 400
rounds of reliable functioning before lubrication-related
malfunctions began to occur.
I finished the 500-round brick of Green Tag without a single
lubrication-related malfunction. At the end of that brick, the
gun was still purring right along; I had a match the following
weekend, however, so I terminated the test and cleaned and
lubed the gun. I do not know how far I would have been able to
push that gun, but after 500 rounds of lead match ammo, the
action was quite clean and the gun was still running smoothly.
CorrosionX, obviously, does not trap firing residue within the
gun. It is superior to any other lubricant I have ever used
for .22-rimfire actions. In fact, I was pretty much astonished
at its performance!
As a plus, CorrosionX does marvelous things to the rust that
seems to grow on my guns. My hands will rust just about any
metal they come in contact with, and every handgun I own wears
a slight patina of rust on the front and back of the grips.
During the initial cleaning of the Ruger Mark II, (blue steel)
pistol, the CorrosionX removed the patina from the grip area.
And, despite the fact that I applied no more lubricant during
the entire six-week test even in the humid Florida climate I
live in the patina never returned. CorrosionX stopped that.
And, it stopped it on my other blue steel guns, as well. This
is, without a doubt, the best surface metal protectant I have
ever used!
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